Sunday, 30 December 2012

Reinforced MendelMax y motor mount


Since I upgrade my Y axis  to a new slide recently I also decided to upgrade the
Y motor mount to something a bit stronger.

Plastic may be good for many things, but all that force on the motor mount from the belt under tension concerned me.

So I added some Aluminium reinforcement. 

I used a Aluminium 40x40x3 90 degree angle of 58mm length, as that is what I had in the shed.


The aluminium slips into the plastic mount.

Aluminium in the plastic mount.
Mounted on my Mendelmax. For all the work, you can hardly see it. But it now feel as solid as the rest of the machine.

For more details see http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:39665

Monday, 24 December 2012

Linear Rail Y Axis Upgrade Kit for MendelMax 1.5

 I Shouted myself a Linear Rail Y Axis Upgrade Kit for MendelMax 1.5 from TrinityLabs for xmas (but of course just after ordering it makerstoolworks.com release there v2.0 of the same kit.)

I ordered it a bit late and expected it to turn up mid Janurary. But it only took 5 days to get to New Zealand, then sat in customs for a further 5 days... But still got to me on the 20th.



The package, arrived in one piece and didn’t sound like broken glass (I was very concerned that the borosilicate glass would be broken before it got to me)


I needn’t have worried it was very well wrapped


One layer removed, can almost see the parts


Another layer removed, this is a bit like parse the parcel, without the passing.   



Almost there


This is the contents of the bag.


The 24 volt HBP, why they include a 24volt HBP and a 12v to 24v converter vs a 12 volt HBP (which they have on their site) I don't know..


Finally the Aluminium heat spreader.

I dint take a photo of the glass, as it just looks like a sheet of glass...

To assemble this I referred to the online manual 

I have to say the manual is not entirely accurate.

The parts list list "(11) T-Slot nuts" when in fact there are only 7 of the pictured type.


They include 4 of these instead. (Apparently theses are t-slot nuts, just of a type that I haven’t seen before. But they are still not pictured in the manual)


They seem to go into the t-slot under the linear rail for the 90° Misumi mounts.



 Finished Y-axis, bottom view


Top view, picks up fingerprints like anything!


 The heater attached to the heat spreader.


The HBP on the Y-axis.

For some reason they have gone back to using bulldog clips, wasting lots of surface area that could be used for printing.  Originally they used a nice corner bracket thing which enabled us to use the entire build surface.  
I will be looking at going back to that method soon.

Time to upgrade.


This is my current Mendelmax from the bottom


A short time later, the Original Y axis has been removed


Some time later, the new Y-axis is installed. It was not easy..  the new piece of t-slot is a very very tight fit.

Another small issue with the manual is the pictures describing how the belt is connected is a bit inaccurate and vague. The image clearly shows 4 zip ties, when only two are supplied and mentioned. Also the belt in the image is twisted so that the flat of the belt goes over the bearing. This is also not mentioned in the docs.   

This is where the manual ends. No mention of the electronics at all!

The 12v to 24v converter is mostly self documenting, in that the inputs and output are documented on the PCB. But important things like how much current it draws so you can use the correct wire to the ramps is missing!

I will have to wire it up next time.

Friday, 26 October 2012

The Rostock moves!

I hooked up the steppers and end stops today to my Rostock

I then wrote a simple bash script to generate gcode movements (rand x,y,z from -50 to +50)

It moves!!!  in its expected delta way!

Some gotchas:

You need to have the end stops enabled and attached, the first thing the rostock firmware wants to do before any moves is home upwards to the end stops.

I got around this by powering up without end stops (since my end stops are normally closed) So it presumed that power on positions was (0,0,0) I then attached end stops to allow it to move with out warnings.

Secondly, its really loud!!!  Most of the time you have all 3 steppers moving, and the wooden base seems to be amplifying the sounds. It may get quieter once I add the side boards and turn it up the correct way (currently running upside down)





  Just some random moves

Monday, 22 October 2012

Rostock marlin on Sanguinololu 1.2


I got some time this weekend to look at a few reprap things.

Firstly I upgraded my old Sanguinololu 1.0 board to 1.2 compatibility by following this


This took some time as its quite fiddly!  Also when I tested I found that my solder had re-bridged one of the cuts in the PCB, so I had to scrape away more copper. The moral is always test everything!

I upgraded the board to 1.2 as Marlin software needs Sanguinololu 1.2 or greater.


I uploaded the Rostock firmware, and had the same issue I originally had on my 1.3a board, the temperature reads 175C in a 20C room.  All setting are correct.

So next I upgraded the 644p to a 1284p chip.

If you zoom into this picture you can just make out the 1284 written on it, other than that it just looks like a 644p (it is fully pin compatible)

I went threw a few iterations of trying to get a boot loader onto this chip, but here is the way that worked for me.

Download the needed files from https://github.com/jmgiacalone/sanguino1284p  

I already have Sanguino-0023r4.zip installed in my arduino, and it comes with boot loaders for 1284p, but they don't seem to work. Copy the / Sanguino / bootloaders / standard directory from the github file into your arduino/hardware/Sanguino/bootloaders directory. Then edit your boards.txt file edit the
ATmega1284p 16mhz section to match the one in the github file above.

I then manually flashed the bootloader with my pololu avr. (I cant get this to work from within arduino, there is no easy way to set the -B options)

>avrdude -B3 -pm1284p -cavrispv2 -P/dev/ttyACM0 -U flash:w:ATmegaBOOT_1284P.hex -C avrdude.conf

Then I set the Fuses. These are different from a standard 644p

1284p fuses
Low 0xD6
High 0xDC
Ext  0xFD

As mentioned in the boards.txt in the github files.

>avrdude -B5 -pm1284p -cavrispv2 -P/dev/ttyACM0 -U lfuse:w:0xd6:m -U hfuse:w:0xdc:m -U efuse:w:0xfd:m  -C avrdude.conf

The fuses are now set.

A quick test in the Arduino IDE setting the board to be  "Sanguino W/ ATmega1284p 16mhz" and compiling and uploading the Example program blink worked as expected (I have to press reset and a moment later click upload)  NB there is no flash-able LED on the SL board unless you add one, so if your expecting a led to blink you will be disappointed.

I then compiled and uploaded Rostock firmware to the 1284p. It compiled and uploaded fine.


I connected to the Sanguinololu with Rostock firmware on the 1284p with Pronterface. For the first time the temperature reads 20C as it should!

Next step is to test the rest of the board works as expected on the Rostock.


Monday, 1 October 2012

4pi tool chain

Attempting to get any code to compile for the 4pi has had a few issues.

So I will document what I've found to try and help out others.

You need a compiler, I wanted to use sourcery-codebench the web site is very confusing as they don't really want you to find or use the Lite version (well that's the impression I get)

You need to click on Download the EABI Release can be found under ARM processors on http://www.mentor.com/embedded-software/sourcery-tools/sourcery-codebench/editions/lite-edition/ 
They want you to register, and will send the link to your e-mail address.

You end up with arm-2012.03-56-arm-none-eabi.bin or arm-2012.03-56-arm-none-eabi.exe depending if your using Linux or windows

Installing is straight forward, just run the file, it launches A GUI installer.

Next you need something to compile

Although it not finished yet, it does compile (after some issues are sorted) so I got sprinter for 4pi from https://github.com/kliment/reup

Kliment advises me this url is obsolete it should be https://github.com/kliment/4pi-firmware 

Using the old version as a demo clone this git repository with you favourite git client, eg "git clone https://github.com/kliment/reup"


Make your way to 4pi-firmware/src and type make.

This should result in the arm binary being generated, I got the following error

tmp/ccVFQZtE.s: Assembler messages:
/tmp/ccVFQZtE.s:318: Error: registers may not be the same --
strexb r0,r0,[r1]'
/tmp/ccVFQZtE.s:333: Error: registers may not be the same -- strexh r0,r0,[r1]'

Googling this provided lots of false leads...  most people giving up and getting an older version of sourcery-codebench

I found one line in a conversation "Patch available at git://gist.github.com/1942280.git"   I took a look.

This provides a patch file. https://gist.github.com/1942280

This Patch fixes the issue.

You need to apply this patch to 4pi-firmware/external_libs/cmsis/core_cm3.c
There are only actually two characters that need changes

"=r" (result)  becomes "=&r" (result) on lines 721 and 738 
 
now make works correctly.

NB this issue only triggers if you use -O (optimization) flags while compiling, which is the default in the firmware make file.

Update

If you use the most up to date version of the firmware from https://github.com/kliment/4pi-firmware
It compiles without issues. The above patch is already in there (I found this out after writing this). So it is only needed if you trying to compile other demo arm programs such as a LED flasher, which provide the buggy version of the library.



The next tool you need is SAM-BA (not to be confused with emulating windows networking under Linux samba)

This is the tool that lets you upload binary’s via the boot loader into the ARM/4pi
SAM-BA is available here 
http://www.atmel.com/tools/ATMELSAM-BAIN-SYSTEMPROGRAMMER.aspx

With these tools I have now managed compile a demo LED flasher application for the 4pi and upload it. It works brilliantly (pun intended as the LEDS are very bright)

Which lead to the next issue, now you have new firmware in the 4pi you dont get to see the boot loader again (unlike the Arduino). There is a trick to this, you need to short the two Pads on the lower right hand side of the 4pi (labeled erase) and then reset. This restarts the boot loader.

Friday, 28 September 2012

Crispy wires!

I was upgrading my Sanguinololu electronics from a version 1.0 to a 1.3a board today
so I could play with Marlin and to generally keep up to date.

I found the following when wiring it in.

Some rather crispy  wires and connectors!.

The red wires have gone black as has the connector block.

Definatly time to replace this part.

This was to my heated build platform.

Other than this the upgrade seems to have gone well. I just recompiled the firmware with the new board type, uploaded and all seem to go.  Still to do a real print though.
But now I will have to fix the HBP first...


Wednesday, 26 September 2012

4pi Reprap Electronics


This is the new 4pi Reprap controller from Kliment


Some people have requested to see the back of the 4pi, so here it is also.

It features lots of things, but for me the main ones are:

Atmel’s SAM3U processor, which runs on a 32-bit ARM Cortex-m3 core.
(not sure what speed its running at, but the CPU can run at 96 MHZ)  

High-speed USB, The micro controller communicates with your computer at 480Mbits

5 Stepper drivers and 5 FETs.


So far there is no firmware for this. It is still under development.

Build details about the board can be found at https://github.com/kliment/4pi-firmware
And of course there is lots of info on the shop  


Saturday, 15 September 2012

boot loaders and Slic3r 0.9.2 notes

Just spent most of the night trying to get my Pololu USB AVR Programmer to put a boot loader on a 644p.

I've done this before on another chip with my works Atmel MKII AVR programmer, but it was a while ago.

After much mucking about I finally struck the right set of switches that worked for me

avrdude -B1 -pm644P -cavrispv2 -P/dev/ttyACM0 -U  flash:w:ATmegaBOOT_644P.hex -C avrdude.conf -v

(With a few full paths, for the hex file and config file)

The issue I had was that is was stopping at 97% eg

Writing | #################################################  | 97% 0.00s avrdude: stk500v2_command(): unknown status 0x80
avrdude: stk500v2_paged_write: write command failed
Writing | ################################################## | 100% 2.07s

avrdude: failed to write flash memory, rc=-1

At first I had -B6 as per my old programmer, and I tried all sorts of larger numbers, but didn’t think to try smaller till now.

NB previously I had updated the firmware in the AVR programmer to version 1.07 
Documentation on how to do this can be found here

Another issue I had is that the Sanguino files here dont all seem to work.
I attempted to use the file Sanguino-0023r4.zip since im using arduino core 0023
But the Programmer advised me that the boot image was trying to load into the wrong place. I went back to the tryied and true Sanguino-0018r2_1_4.zip and had no further issues

Slic3r


Slic3r 0.9.2 is out.  But it seems to be causing a lot of confusion with regards to configuration files. (it really confused me till I had a long chat with Sound, the author)

There are now two completely separate configuration systems.

If you use the --load command line, and want to make any changes, you must use the export menu item to save them. The save button is for the new system only.

Pronterface uses the --load system 

If you want to use the new system, save your settings under new names with the save button. You dont get to chose a directory, in linux this is saved in the hidden directory ~/.Slic3r
NB don't save as default, default is not editable. You will just create two sets of configuration files both called default!

Now there is a big caveot with using the new configuration files. You can't load them via the --load command line option. They can only be used from the GUI.

Currently the way I use slic3r is to have different config files for each machine and filiment type etc. I launch Slic3r, load up my STL files, set my printer and filiment and slice to .gcode. I then just load the gcode into pronterface to print.

If you dont do it this way you have to export every combination of config files into .ini files and edit Pronterface to load the ini file you wish to use, which is not particularly nice

Monday, 10 September 2012

Reprap SL PCB's

I have sold 95% of my inventory. I have about 2 left and 3 I kept for myself. But I have sold the remaining 95 Sanuinololu 1.3a PCB's

This took over a year to sell them. The New Zealand Customer base is two small, and global customers seem to want next day shipping for $2.

A lot of people also wanted  RAMPS boards (without any real justifications). So I was quite glad I did that swap of 20 SL boards for 20 older ramps boards.

I'm not going to list any more.

So that it, no more PCB's from me.

I hope the majority of boards are happily printing somewhere in the world. 







Sunday, 9 September 2012

Rostock platform

Despite not having enough bolts or washers I have tacked the Rostock together

The rod clamps are meant to have 18 bolts at the bottom and 12 at the top. I'm presently using 12 total. 

But its starting to look much more like a Rostock

Saturday, 8 September 2012

Rostock Base


The Rostock base is done.

Measuring out the angles is a little tricky. I didn’t like the Printable drill jig and resorted to good old fashioned ruler and protractor, using this as a guide

I also really hate using wood.. it so imprecise and messy.

Still waiting for washers and bolts, so my options of what to do next are limited.

Tuesday, 4 September 2012

Rostock starfish






Ok,its really a platform, 6 joints, 6 rods, 12 12mm M3 cap head screws, 6 20mm cap head screws and 12 m3 washers. There probably should be 12 more washers. 

The Rostock page is not very well documented in regards parts. The unfinished BOD says 20mm screws, but in the pictures they are flush which is 14mm. Also they are screwed into the plastic only. I'm presently using m3 nuts, but these will fall off.

I will be investing in some M3 lock nuts soon.

Unfortunately I've run out of M3 washers for now, so its time to look at marking out the base.






Monday, 3 September 2012

My Rostock

Since a picture is worth a 1000 words...





The bulk of a Rostock for myself.

I haven’t printed a extruder yet as I am unsure what I want to use.  I have PTFE tube As I will try a bowden style.


And 5 minutes later






These are just sitting together, but looks good.





Thursday, 30 August 2012

Rostock Plastics

And now for something sort of different, to paraphrase Monty python.





A Set of Rostock Plastics

The multi colours is partly deliberate. The tinted colours are stiffer and thus a good idea for the rods. The Blue ran out, so I used some green.

I nearly missed the Hot end of the bowden cable as the documentation didn't really mention it.

The rods where 'fun' to print. The stl on thingiverse had some issues and needed running threw netfab to fix them. They are also really long. The print area on a standard Prusa is about 200x200. Most have a much shorter X carriage due to the extruder. I had to remove my x end stop and run without it to get a full 200x200 and then it still needs to be printed diagonally and without a skirt.

This set isn’t for me, my set is next!




Wednesday, 22 August 2012

blog google stats

I was looking at my blog stats, just to see if anyone is actuly reading the stuff I post :)

High on the list of referring sites, amongst all the googles of various countrys, was something unexpected.

http://asrob.uc3m.es/index.php/Clone_wars:_Prusa_Iteraci%C3%B3n_2

They are using one of my images! 

Second digital poaching! I must be doing something right!







Saturday, 18 August 2012

New toys and annother Prusa I2 set

I had some more 'toys' arrive in the mail yesterday






Geared stepper motor 1:50, 7Ω, 12V, 0.4Amp, 1.0Nm
Driver Pulley, ID 5mm
Catridge heater ~30W/12V

I am hoping to turn the steppers and pulleys into a dual extruder for the MendelMax at some point. The Cartridge heaters are for playing with Nylon, which needs 350C or maybe the dual extruder hot ends, time will tell.


I printed out a set of the latest iteration 2 Prusa parts.


Quite a bit has changed since I last looked.
The X-ends have been simplified, the thin hole for the zip ties has been removed in favour of some hollows.  The X carriage has no nut holders and the lm8uu holders have been simplified . The Bearing guides have also been made thicker.

This particular set has a wade deigned for Viks 18mm hotend



Tuesday, 14 August 2012

Upgrades

Nabbed myself a few little upgrades




A SDRAMPS and a hyena v1.0

I haven't been able to try the SDRAMPS as my RAMPS doesn't have the required pins, yet!

The SDRAMPS and hyena are for my mendelmax

I also got a SD for Sanguinololu





This is already attached to my Prusa. I recompiled the firmware with sd support with no issues.
 
I only have one micro sd card, and I can read it, but I cant seem to write to it.
I have been warned its only compatible with some microsd cards, but haven't been able to find and specification of what will or wont work.


Tuesday, 24 July 2012

Amber Prusa

Another set of Prusa iteration 2 plastics, in orange tint. Very nice to look at.


Friday, 13 July 2012

Mendelmax Progress

I finally got some motivation today to do some stuff with my mendelmax

Its been moving in x,y and z for a while, but I haven't been happy with the y axis.  It would skip, regularly, and I had the current on the stepper controller up as high as I was willing to go (to the point I can hear it whine) and the friction down as much as possible. It just has to much mass!
Today I swapped my Y stepper for one I knew had more torque.

I dont have a print head yet, but I faked a print job printing at 250mm and it seems to be moving ok at those speeds (spoke to soon, still skips on y...)

I recently got a cheap digital video camera thing, so I videoed a small part of the test


 

The 'print head' is a dial guage, the next step is to level the bed.



Wednesday, 11 July 2012

Set of Mendelmax Plastics in transparent Blue

Its been a while since I posted anything so I though I would just post this as a quick update.

I've been printing a set of Transparent Blue Mendelmax 1.5 Plastics for a friend.

There is fractionally more than 100m of plastic here, the X ends for Precision Acme Leadscrews with Delrin nuts use lots!


He also wanted Herringbone Gears for the extruder.

I found this blue really didn't like bridging that much... I couldn't find a nice setting for it, but it worked well enough.



 

Sunday, 3 June 2012

Zip tie anchors

I've been slowly wiring up my Mendelmax

To try and keep the wires under some sort of control I decided I wanted to use zip tie anchors. The problem is that I tend to do projects at odd hours and nothing is open. However do have an abundance of Zip ties and I had some double sided sticky foam pads and of course a 3d Printer!



"voila" as they say. Problem solved.

Now on thingiverse http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:24187


Saturday, 26 May 2012

Dark blue Prusa Iteration 2

I've been quite busy of late. I had to rebuild my Main computer after a dead Hard drive.  Back up your computer, regularly! (Do it now!) I had data backups but no full backup, so I'm still rebuilding...

Anyway, I met a local guy via trademe.co.nz. He purchased some Reprap PCB's then when he picked them up he noticed I had a working Prusa and also wanted a set of plastics in Dark Blue.

  
So here they are!

Under normal house lights they look somewhat purple.

My printer is finally printing without creating lots of strings!  These are straight from the printer, very little clean up.

The forums on the strings issue insisted that the slop between the driver gear and the large gear on the extruder causes strings.
Well that slop is still there and the problem has been fixed with software.

Unfortunately I can't say what exactly, the issue fixed itself when I switched from SFACT to slic3r. If you haven't tried slic3r, I highly recommend that you do! 


 

Wednesday, 16 May 2012

Weird gcode idea

I had an idea last night.

Generating gcode is a pain, and regenerating it if you change filament to another diameter is twice the pain.

Thinking on this, what changes between gcode generations?

a) Temperature
b) E Steps

Well I don't put temperature code into my gcode, so thats not an issue

E steps change as the diameter changes.

So why don't we normalize E to be diameter independent?  Ie take current E-stepsper mm  and divide by the diameter?

This would generate gcode that can be reused. The down side is you would have to define the filament radius somewhere and tell the firmware to multiply e-steps by that number...

I haven't tried this yet

The maths may be more complicated than just a simple divide by diameter. It may require some sort of cylinder volume maths...

Something to think on...


   






 

Saturday, 28 April 2012

printing at 90 micron layers! and software updates

Its been a weekend of upgrades.

I run Ubuntu 64 bit linux for my reprap machine. This week Ubuntu released 12.04LTS, I have upgraded. So far no issues.

I have also switched to using Slic3r from SFACT.

I installed the precomputed Slic3r binaries from here

Since I run 64 bit and this is a 32 bit binary I also had to install the 32-bit support libraries (ia32-libs and ia32-libs-gtk packages).

You then need to configure pronterface to use Slic3r

Set the following to settings.
slicecommand:  {full_path_to}slic3r $s --load config.ini --output $o
sliceoptscommand: {full_path_to}slic3r --load config.ini --ignore-nonexistent-config

You then have to setup Slic3r for your printer (very easy if you have set up anything before)

Part of the reason I have updated to Slic3r is I wanted to try and print with 0.09mm layers and Slicer makes this very easy, you just have to change the layer height and it does all the other maths for you!.

The reason I wanted to try this is I have seen a lot of advertising of late for the Ultmaker, saying there are better than everyone else as they can print at 50 microns. I have looked at their hardware and software and there doesn't seem to be anything particularly special about it.


This is my first results, printed with 0.09 (90 micron layer height!)
This is http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:11705

The print looks brilliant!, but isn't perfect but its so close. I am very happy with the results.  (there is an issue on the top on the head between the ears)

 Under a bit of magnification, still cant see the lines! (you can see a patten, but not make out individual lines)

The highest magnification over the tail, still looks brilliant!

The negative is of course speed. This took 4 hours to print!

Wednesday, 25 April 2012

Updating my reprap software

My reprap has been running the same software and firmware for a while now.

I've been planning to try Marlin for a while to try its look ahead stuff. But I couldn't as I'm still running Sanguinololu 1.1 boards, these are not supported.
(I am building up a 1.3A Sanguinololu, but got distracted with other projects)

Today on a whim I took a look at whats has been happening with sprinter

It now has the same look ahead features as Marlin in the master branch!

This should allow for faster printing.

I have installed the firmware and got basic functionality working, test cubes work.

Looking threw the source code I also see

// G2 - CW ARC
// G3 - CCW ARC

arc G codes are now supported, this will mean no more straight line approximations of curves, when the slicer software catches up and generates arc commands that is... Slic3r apparently does generate g2 and g3 commands but the author admits its not well tested yet.

I also see

// M500 - stores paramters in EEPROM
// M501 - reads parameters from EEPROM (if you need reset them after you changed them temporarily).
// M502 - reverts to the default "factory settings". You still need to store them in EEPROM afterwards if you want to.
// M503 - Print settings
So you can set your steps per mm and maximum rates and and a bunch of other stuff in EEPOM.  No need to re flash all the time!


I also updated Printrun/Pronterface.  Only noticeable change I can see quickly is there is now a temperature graph on the main interface.

Monday, 23 April 2012

In frame power supply mount

I've created a few clips to allow me to mount my power supply in my mendelmax frame under the Y carriage with out any additional t-slot nuts (partly as i've run out!)


Full details are here http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:21894

Sunday, 22 April 2012

Mendelmax 1.5

I've been upgrading parts of my mendelmax to version 1.5 

There seem to be two main changes


Most noticeably they have moved the stepper motors for Z down to the bottom of the machine.  I don't like this idea on some levels, but do like it in regards to wiring, you no longer have to get wires from the top to the bottom of the machine.

This leaves the top of the mendelmax a little cleaner. 

The other change is related to the Z thread, they are changing to a larger thread and 'nut'  Since I don't have this thread... I'm not looking into this at this stage

So I guess that means my machine is now about a Mendelmax 1.25

Monday, 16 April 2012

Quadcopter assembly

This is my attempt at building a quadcopter.

You need the following:
The flight control board
This is a MWC MuliWii Lite pre configured for 4-axis Flight in QuadX mode.
I got this from goodluckbuy.com

Connecting wire,
R12A1062-06 Turnigy Pure-Silicone Wire 12AWG (1mtr) RED


B12A1062-06 Turnigy Pure-Silicone Wire 12AWG (1mtr) BLAC


B16A483-06 Turnigy Pure-Silicone Wire 16AWG (1mtr) BLAC


R16A483-06 Turnigy Pure-Silicone Wire 16AWG (1mtr) Red









Brushless motors 4x A2208-17 1000KV

Motor Controlers Esc: 4x TURNIGY Plush 12amp (2A BEC) BESC
The BEC is a battery eliminator circuit, this converts your battery voltage down to 5v to power the control board and radio receiver. This is part of the ESC. 

A Lupo battery

Connectors for the Lipo

And you need a set of plastics the PL2Q

Assembly:

The first thing I found is the standard arms for the PL2Q just didn't work for me
The motor controllers where far to close to the motors. Second thing I notice was the motor controller was not going to fit very well.


The under side of the motor controller, looks like this, with two voltage regulators on top of each other, making a large lump. This would never sit well on a flat surface.

I decided to design my own arms with holes crafted to fit the above weird shape. They have support structures that are broken out to for a nice hole for the motor controller, the plastic that is left in this area is solid for strength.

The motor controller in place, held by a zip tie.

The motors came with connectors, I soldered these to the motor wires and insulated with heat shrink.
The motor assembly is a little tricky to get on. Firstly slip a large piece of heat shrink over the motor holder. (note this is a modified motor holder without any controller cutouts) Press the empty motor holder into place on the arm, with the motor wires in to the empty motor holder. Plug the motor leads in. Carefully push the motor into place while pulling the wires over the motor controller. Then pull the heat shrink over the motor controller and wires.  I have not heated the shrink wrap yet as I want to test them first.    

Add the four completed arms to the main body, you need to remove the 3 plug pins from their housing, then slip the wires threw the housing holes and put the pins back into their housing.


Add in the power lines. This is a X shape with the battery wires connected to the center to form a 5 legged thing. you need two, one for positive and one for ground.

Join the motor controller power leads to the power X. I found joining wires a pain, until I started using the above tool. It simply holds the two wire correctly in place to be soldered, no more burnt fingers trying to hold wires together!

All motor controllers are wired up and the batter connector has been attached.


Power on!

At this point I noticed something was sizzling!  This is not a good sign!

I tracked to sizzling down the the main controller, to the yet unused serial pins.
This was odd as nothing was connected to these pins yet. I had noticed the board was not very clean. So I removed the serial connector cleaned the board and put a new serial connector on the board. This fixed the sizzling.

I have since discover there seems to be a dry joint somewhere, the pitch control keeps going to 1000 (low) This will need to be fixed.


More to come. Including remote control setup information and channel info.