Wednesday, 21 December 2011

RAMPS 1.3 PCB's

I have RAMPS 1.3 PCB's!!

I traded some Sanguinololu PCB's for them so now I have the two main PCB types


These arent the latest RAMPS, the latest RAMPS being version 1.4, but this is the last version that isnt surface mount, far easier for us mear mortals to assemble.

In saying that, these boards come with Pololu stepper compatible PCB's and they are surface mount.

These stepper modules are based on A3979 chips vs the regular A4983.

Taken from the reprap forums:

"The differences are basically:

1. A3979 will drive 2.5A, vs A4983 will drive 2A.
2. A3979 requires more passive components to provide a working setup (ie: on the carrier board) than the A4983.
3. A3979 has a lower RDS(on) value than the A4983 (slightly more efficient).
4. A3979 supports 1, 1/2, 1/4, and 1/16 stepping, whereas the A4983 supports 1,1/2, 1/4, 1/8 and 1/16 stepping. Basically the A3979 doesn't support 1/8 stepping.
5. A3979 is a physically bigger chip, so should be easier to heatsink.
6. A3979 is fairly common and stocks are widely available. "

2.5A is a nice feature.

Not having 1/8 is loss..  But not really an issue.  
I run all my steppers at 1/16, but some like to run Z and or E at 1/8 micro stepping.


I will put these up for sale on various site soon.

Saturday, 17 December 2011

3d extrusion from 2d silhouette

For a while I have been looking for a way to import silhouettes into the 3d world.

I wanted to convert this image 

I tried inkscape, by following the examples on the internet the examples worked fine. But combining this with importing a silhouette and edge detection only resulted in very nice cookie cutters vs solid objects.   I could not find any way to do what I wanted (but my skills with inkscape are limited)

I found no other program on the net that even came close, just lots of things making bumpmaps.

So I decided to try writing something myself to convert it to openscad code

V1. Just converted the black pixels to cubes eg "translate([61,118,0]) cube([1,1,1],center =false)"  This worked but in a not very usable way.
This just creates far to many polygons. I very quickly found out that openscad seems to have a limit of 9993 cubes.

V2. I added in some smarts to make the cubes as big as possable.
In doing this I discovered jpeg artifacts.  If you create a simple jpeg in gimp eg a black square on a while background and save it with a quality of less that 100%, it will add in additional colours! This confused the code no end as it was only expecting two colours. To get around this I converted the image to a black and white bitmap. This seemed to work very nicely.

I added in some random colours per cube so I could see what it was up to.
This is what it looked like in openscad when compiled.
Compiling and rendering this took about an hour, still to many polygons.

This would not allow me to export though, it resulted in an error which was not self explanatory (sadly I didnt take note of it). Basically the error meant that you cant have two walls co-plainer, and all touching cubes are co-plainer.
   
I fixed this by adding a 0.0001mm to both x and y sizes of all cubes, resulting in cubes next to each other over lapping a fraction.

After this I was able to generate a .stl file. I further refined this with Meshlab

The result, I was able to print them!

This worked very well. So I though I would try something else...
Unfortunately everything else so far has produced scad files with far to many cubes.
Update, this turned out to be human error... this is what happens when you try things at 1am..   So I retract the above. All other silhouettes Ive tried so far do work!.


Here is the v2 code...  file names are hard coded and lots of features/debugging are turned on/off by adding or replacing the comments.

Hey its pre alpha, what do you expect?

There is at least one bug in this, when creating random colours the random number generator sometimes likes to create really small number written with exponents, openscad will error on these. I just edited the value to be 0 to get over it. 

This is in python, I've never written any python before.

----------------------start of code----------------------
import Image, random
def findbox (x,y):
        xlen = 0;
        ylen = 0;
#       print '(x,y) = '+str(x)+' '+ str(y)
#       print 'current (x,y) '+ str(pix[x,y])
#       print 'current (x+1,y) '+ str(pix[x+1,y])
        while (pix[x+xlen+1,y] != 0):
                xlen = xlen + 1
#               print 'xlen = ['+str(xlen)+']'
#               print 'current (x+xlen+1) '+ str(pix[x+xlen+1,y]);
                if x+xlen+2 >= im.size[0]:
                        break

#       print 'start y current (x,y) '+ str(pix[x,y])
#       print 'current (x+xlen,y+ylen+1) '+ str(pix[x+xlen,y+ylen+1])
        while (pix[x+xlen,y+ylen+1] != 0 and pix[x,y+ylen+1] != 0):
                ylen = ylen + 1
#               print 'ylen = ['+str(ylen)+']'
#               print 'current (y+ylen+1) '+ str(pix[x+xlen,y+ylen+1]);

#               if (y+ylen)%((xlen+1)) == 0 :
#                       break
                if y+ylen+2 >= im.size[1]:
                        break

        print 'color(['+str(random.random())+','+str(random.random())+','+str(random.random())+']) translate(['+str(x)+','+str(y)+',0]) cube(['+str(xlen+1+0.0001)+','+str(ylen+1+0.0001)+',2.5],center =false);'
#       print 'translate(['+str(x)+','+str(y)+',0]) cube(['+str(xlen+1+0.0001)+','+str(ylen+1+0.0001)+',10],center =false);'
        im.paste((0),(x,y,x+xlen+1,y+ylen+1))

#       im.show()
        return

im = Image.open("silhouette.bmp")
#im.show()
pix = im.load()
#print pix[0,0]
#print im.size

for y in xrange(im.size[1]-1):
        for x in xrange(im.size[0]-1):
               #print pix[x,y]
                if pix[x,y] != 0:
                        findbox (x,y)

----------------------end of code-----------------------

Hope someone finds this useful


Tuesday, 13 December 2011

Packages from overseas

I found a nice present at my back door this evening!

From MiSUMi


Yes its my T-slot Aluminum for a MendelMax


All the way from a friend in America





There are 14 pieces here plus nuts and Self-tapping screws


This is the end on view, there are actually 4 t-slots on the left, 6 in the middle and 4 on the right (partly obscured)




All laid out flat


Now I'm all set for the x-mas break!

Sunday, 11 December 2011

Prusa Iteration 2

Recently Prusa released Prusa Iteration 2

I Printed off a set


Basically its the official collection of all the best ideas since the first version.

This is the LM8UU version, with Printed LM8UU's in place in stead of bushings. I like this version as you can easily change to real LM8UU's by just carefully swapping the printed LM8UU's with real ones.


Anyone else who is planning to print these should heed the following warning.
At this time there are some bugs in the design of some of these pieces.

Prusa decided that it was better to have edge to edge measurements for nuts in the metric.scad and configuration.scad file vs. the original measurement which where point to point. Unfortunately. The Extruder parts still presume the latter, so when they get printed all nuts holes are under size.

I have alerted Prusa to this, and I am sure it will be fixed soon, but in the mean time you may want to print the wades extruder from thingiverse


Friday, 25 November 2011

MendelMax

I have ordered t-slot, it should be on it way here presently.

So I have printed myself a set of plastics for it also.


In printing these I noticed and interesting effect, this is translucent orange PLA when on the real. When printed Its a lot less translucent, except for the edges, they are still translucent. The edges are printed a lot slower, 30mm/s the rest is printed at 100mm/s. Although it printed fine, it look like at that speed something interesting is happening to the plastic. Since its bonded fine, I dont think is a temperature thing, more air being caught in the print... But this is just theory.

This is also visible in the the left most piece, these parts are mostly perimeter and thus much darker.


Saturday, 12 November 2011

more t-slot stuff

Ive had a few more replies from t-slot suppliers.

I have found that autolineautomation.co.nz 
has 2020 t-slot in New Zealand!

2020 t-slot 28.41 +gst per cut Meter (its cheaper uncut at 25.57 +gst per Meter)
t-slot Nuts 1.08 +gst each

So that's 
7 * 28.41
100 * 1.08
sub total  306.87
gst  46.03
TOTAL  $352.90NZD

+ shipping, not mentioned.

80/20 Australia also responded

20-2020    20mm X 20mm T-SLOTTED EXTRUSION , 420mm LG                                6     $       8.33          $                49.98     Ex-stock
20-2020    20mm X 20mm T-SLOTTED EXTRUSION, 300mm LG                                 4     $       6.66          $                26.64     Ex-stock
20-2020    20mm X 20mm T-SLOTTED EXTRUSION, 340mm LG                                 4     $       7.22          $                28.88     Ex-stock
14122    20S,THREADED PLATE  9 X 9 X 3 M5  CLEAR ZINC                        100     $       0.46          $                46.00     2-3 week
Delivery Via International Express Post to New Zealand                 $             80.00

231.5A  approx  $302.81 NZD


Vs importing it from the USA via a friend and paying two lots of shipping
HFS5-2020-420            6                  2.39                14.34
ALUMINUM FRAME
HFS5-2020-340            4                   1.93                 7.72
ALUMINUM FRAME
HFS5-2020-300            4                   1.71                 6.84
ALUMINUM FRAME
HNKK5-5                      100                                     19.32
NUTS FOR ALUMINIUM FRAMES
HTJ5                             4                   0.62                 2.48
TAPPING JOINTS FOR ALUMINUM
Sub Total                                                                 50.70
Shipping to USA                                                        20.00
Shipping to NZ                                                        80.00

Total                                                                       150. 70USD (191.702 NZD)

Sadly, and not surprisingly, getting it from the USA even with 2/3 of the cost being shipping, is still the cheapest option.



Sunday, 6 November 2011

T-slot Aluminum

Ive been trying to get some T-slot Aluminum, as I would really like to build a mendelmax and a few other projects based on this sort of extruded aluminum

Unfortunately It seem like New Zealand is very much still stuck in the dark ages!
This stiff is nearly imposable to get...  Even though we make aluminum!

From the mendelmax site, parts from Misumi:


Part NumberQuantityPrice Ea. (USD/Euro*)Extended Price(USD/Euro)
HFS5-2020-420**6$2.15$13.10420mm extrusions
HFS5-2020-340**4$1.77$7.07340mm Extrusions
HFS5-2020-300**4$1.56$6.24300mm Extrusions
HNKK5-51$19.32$19.32T-Slot nuts for 5mm screws, bag of 100
HTJ54$.49$1.96Self-tapping screws for blind joints
Total

$47.70







This is in USD.

So first I attempted to contacted Misuni, their web site it separated into geographic regions. New Zealand is part of their singapore site http://sg.misumi-ec.com/

I attempted to sign up, only to find the site wouldn't allow you to select New Zealand from their Country pull down menu. This was not a good start. Their sign up was also full of company related questions.

I e-mailed their support and after fighting with their engrish I eventually got the reply
"I had checked with our management, sorry to inform you that according to our company policy, we are not able to sell to Individual. We can only lease with corporate company. You cannot purchase our products locally in New Zealand as we do not have any branch, agent there."

I then tried a few local places, while waiting for replies from the other international suppliers listed on mendelmax

inexmetals.co.nz, "no sorry that’s not one of our standards"  But they did offer to make me some if I wanted a large quantity.  I never found out just how much that was, but it was alot more than the 13 meters I wanted. 

Ullrich Aluminium, "Unfortunatley we have nothing in that size 20x20mm t-slot, our only one is a 57x32mm."

Bosch finally replied that there was none in New Zealand or Australia, but they could ship some to me. I got a quote, $599.10!! +GST +$190 shipping!!!!
Thats $920 odd dollars!!!  I could fly to America and pick it up myself for less than that!!!

I am still looking, but it is most likely I will get a friend to get it from the USA (where misumi will allow individuals to purchase) and then ship it here.



Thursday, 27 October 2011

Ive been digitaly poached!

I was reading a new online reprap book Building Your Own 3D Printer when I noticed one of the images looked really really familiar (Second picture in the frame section, with white plastic. Label Image 3 )

Its one of my pictures form this blog!!  From back when I first assembled my Prusa

I'm not sure how I feel about this...  

It would have been nice to at least be asked if they could use it, i would have said yes. But at the same time im flattered that they are using it...

The image is cited with its source location pointing back to my blog...

Going to have to think about this one...






Tuesday, 25 October 2011

Silver set of prusa parts

Ive printed up a set of high quality hi res Prusa parts for sale on trademe


Here are a bunch of photos, all photos are click-able to give a bigger view, click twice to get full size.




Monday, 24 October 2011

Lots of Sanguinololu 1.3a boards

I got an interesting package in the mail today. From the packaging I was wondering if its was drugs! (as  TV would have me believe that this is how packages of drugs looks like)




But no, it was 100 Sanguinololu 1.3a boards!

The boards came in 4 bundles of 25 boards, in two packages (which looks like it is the inside of a duvet) The 4 bundles are heat shrunk packaging, very tough plastics with bubble wrap as one side.
Very weird.. but its only packaging  


This is the front of the board


And this is the back.

The boards look brilliant.

Now I need to sell them and recover my costs.

Expect to find these on various web site for sale soon, as soon as I work out shipping costs etc...

Edit: Now available @ http://www.emakershop.com and http://www.trademe.co.nz



Wednesday, 5 October 2011

Bright orange set of prusa parts

Ive printed up a set of high quality hi res Prusa parts for sale on trademe


I hope these sell. there doesn't seem to be much demand in New Zealand.

Here are a bunch of photos, all photes are clickable to give a bigger view, click twice to get full size.









Tuesday, 4 October 2011

Silver PLA

I am currently playing with "Silver" PLA, its really more of a pencil lead colour.


It prints really nicely



It doesn't look this blue in real life, which is a pity!

Thursday, 22 September 2011

3d scanner, mechanics

Ive decided the perfect partner machine for a 3D printer is of course a 3d scanner.

I have started to make a spinscan


All the mechanical stuff is done, and I have acquired a line laser and a web cam.
This just needs a round bit of wood attached to the main gear. 

The electronics are next, this could be interesting, as its not what I would call documented, but then it is very beta.

Monday, 19 September 2011

Spools

I've looked around thingiverse.com for spools I like, so far I don't like any of them.
This in part is as my real does not seem to match any of them.

Finally i found one I like.



OK I'm telling porkies.  I designed this clamp to fit my 500 meter Spool from Vik

Now it is available on thingiverse for all to enjoy. 

Friday, 26 August 2011

LM8UU Linear bearings and T2.5 pulleys and belts

Ive also upgraded my system to use real LM8UU Linear bearings on all 3 Axis.

For this you need to print new x-carriage, x-end-idler and x-end-motor parts, and some LM8UU Holders to replace the bushings on the Y axis.

Currently all these things are in different places on the net.
LM8UU x-carriage is here in scad format
LM8UU x-end-idler and x-end-motor is here
LM8UU holders here

This is the underside of the new x-carrage.


This is the underside of my Y axis
This is the new x-end-idler
This is the new x-end-motor

In all of these I found the LM8UU holder to be very very tight, and inserting the LM8UU was difficult.

With the Y holders I broke several before I got a good set. I found that PLA is a little to brittle for these to be pressed into position and they just snapped. The best way I found to get these in was to reheat the holders in an oven to about 50c and then put the bearings in, while it was warm.

With the x-ends I put them in a vice and slowly squeezed it shut, forcing the bearings in.

One unexpected result of this upgrade is my commercial 11 tooth t5 pulleys was to large a diameter for the new x-end-motor. It physically fitted, but belt would rub on the lower stepper mount. The quick fix was to upgrade the belt and pulley to T2.5. These fitted without issue.

I then updated the Y pulley and belts to match

This image makes things look twisted, but they arent.

I got the t2.5 belts and pulleys from http://www.redwizard3d.com/products/prusa-2-5t-belt-set-2-x-900mm/ and http://www.redwizard3d.com/products/set-of-2-aluminium-pulleys-16-tooth-t2-5t/



Sunday, 21 August 2011

Z axis stabilizers

A while back I also added some Z stabilizers. When I upgraded my Z threads from BZP to stainless steal I lengthened them with the intention of adding Z stabilizers, many months later I finnlay added them


I first saw these on pictures of makergear Prusa's and thought they where a good idea. I hunted around the Internet till I found them Left here and Right here

These added a lot of stability to to the entire X axis, and made a much nicer print.



Monday, 15 August 2011

HBP (Heated build platform)

I have had a heated build platform for some time, but I havent written about it.

This is a PCB headbead, its just a Standard PCB with tracks that have been made so that when its pluged in its about 1ohm of resistance.

I got mine from http://ultimachine.com/content/prusa-pcb-heated-bed

There are a bunch of options for printing onto this, some people print directly onto it with Kapton tape.

I decided I wanted to print on glass. With glass you have to be careful not to create any hot spots or the glass may shatter, especially since its normal glass, in this case recycled from an old flatbed scanner. So I put a 3mm piece of aluminum on top of it as a heat spreader.





This is the underside of my HBP, the thermistor is stuck to the board with Kapton tape. The wires are in a loop so that board can move in and out and not pull the wires off. The wires are only rated to 80c, so ABS is off the menu for now.


The PCB holes are countersunk into the 3mm aluminum plate, so they are flush.
These are bolted onto the L pieces, with the PCB sandwiched in between them.
The Standard mounting screws are countersunk into the L peices and are flush with the PCB



The glass is simply held on top by Bulldog clips, which makes for easy removal for cleaning

The glass must be clean and free of finger prints, I washed the glass in standard dish washing liquid as you would a plate. I then degreased it with acetone, making sure to only hold it on it edges.

This just plugs into the Sanguiololu, as does the Thermistor.

NB this takes 10AMP at 12volts on startup,make sure your electronics and power supply can handle it.

I found that 60c is a good temperature for PLA to stick to the HBP, and they come free after the glass cools to below 50c.

This does take a we while to get to temperature. Some people put their HBP on a wooden backing board. This probably keeps the heat in better, and it should get to temperature sooner.

The final prints are now very flat, and the finished surface is really glossy.

Sunday, 17 July 2011

Its alive!!

My Reprpap is finally working again!

Since I upgraded to the Sanguinololu board I havent been able to print, as it just randomly would skip when moving X or Y or both...

Yesterday I got told that a bug in the Sprinter firmware was fixed in experimental that sounded like my issue. I downloaded it and flashed it and after a little tweeking I'm printing again!


Now my prints are walking off the printer! :)

Sunday, 19 June 2011

Sprinter firmware and Sanguinololu

I installed Sprinter firmware into my Sanguinololu

The process has a few niggles I had to work out, so I will mention them here.

Firstly you need to get the Arduino Software from here or if you have Ubuntu 11 you can simply apt-get install arduino

Then you need to get the sanguino software from here
Extract this into the appropriate place your your system.

[edit: only needed for version 1.0 or 1.1 boards]
Once you have extracted the files edit the boards.txt file and change the line
sanguino.upload.protocol=stk500 to  sanguino.upload.protocol=arduino

Without this line Arduino would not upload the firmware, insisting that the hardware ID didn't match.


You also need to get a copy of Sprinter from here

Load up arduino and change your board type to  Sanguino and set your serial port to the one that is connected to your Sanguinololu.

Now load the Sprinter Sketch 

Go to the configuration.h page and edit the line
#define MOTHERBOARD to be #define MOTHERBOARD 62 [for version 1.3a]
 
You also need to edit other parts of this file to match you hardware.

I also don't have any end stops, so I had to disable these, to do this edit pins.h

At the bottom of this file you will find a section that starts with
#elif MOTHERBOARD == 62 [for version 1.3a] 
 
In this section change  
#define X_MIN_PIN
#define Y_MIN_PIN
#define Z_MIN_PIN
 
to all be -1, ie disabled.

Hit compile,there should be no errors

Hit upload and it should upload to the Sanguinololu. It should upload without issues

Sometimes I find arduino just wont connect, I find that pressing the reset button on the
Sanguinololu and the upload button simultainiously seem to get around this.

Thursday, 16 June 2011

Sanguinololu Fuses!

I was getting no where with uploading the new firmware to my Sanguinololu.

So I read up on the boot loader, and it says that the PB0 line is pulsed 3 times, so I attached a led and resistor to it as documented in http://sanguino.cc/hardware


As you can see it nicely connects to the last pin on each row of the connectors


I got no flashes...

This basically means things are not running 


Then i found out about fuses

These set various boot options, and there are some nice Fuse calculators out there.. eg http://www.engbedded.com/fusecalc/

From the Sanguino boards.txt file i found the correct settings for the 3 fuse bytes


sanguino.bootloader.low_fuses=0xFF
sanguino.bootloader.high_fuses=0xDC
sanguino.bootloader.extended_fuses=0xFD

I have now set these with the command

avrdude -B 8 -patmega644P -cavrispmkII -Pusb -U lfuse:w:0xFF:m -U hfuse:w:0xDC:m -U efuse:w:0xFD:m

Which resulted in

avrdude: AVR device initialized and ready to accept instructions

Reading | ################################################## | 100% 0.01s

avrdude: Device signature = 0x1e960a
avrdude: reading input file "0xFF"
avrdude: writing lfuse (1 bytes):

Writing | ################################################## | 100% 0.01s

avrdude: 1 bytes of lfuse written
avrdude: verifying lfuse memory against 0xFF:
avrdude: load data lfuse data from input file 0xFF:
avrdude: input file 0xFF contains 1 bytes
avrdude: reading on-chip lfuse data:

Reading | ################################################## | 100% 0.00s

avrdude: verifying ...
avrdude: 1 bytes of lfuse verified
avrdude: reading input file "0xDC"
avrdude: writing hfuse (1 bytes):

Writing | ################################################## | 100% 0.02s

avrdude: 1 bytes of hfuse written
avrdude: verifying hfuse memory against 0xDC:
avrdude: load data hfuse data from input file 0xDC:
avrdude: input file 0xDC contains 1 bytes
avrdude: reading on-chip hfuse data:

Reading | ################################################## | 100% 0.00s

avrdude: verifying ...
avrdude: 1 bytes of hfuse verified
avrdude: reading input file "0xFD"
avrdude: writing efuse (1 bytes):

Writing | ################################################## | 100% 0.02s

avrdude: 1 bytes of efuse written
avrdude: verifying efuse memory against 0xFD:
avrdude: load data efuse data from input file 0xFD:
avrdude: input file 0xFD contains 1 bytes
avrdude: reading on-chip efuse data:

Reading | ################################################## | 100% 0.00s

avrdude: verifying ...
avrdude: 1 bytes of efuse verified

avrdude: safemode: Fuses OK

avrdude done.  Thank you.
 



The LED now flashes as it should.

I still cant upload my firmware, but it is now trying... getting closer

Wednesday, 15 June 2011

Installing the boot loader

I borrowed a Atmel MKII AVR programmer from work and after a few attempts I managed to install the boot loader

The wiki says to use the following

avrdude -patmega644P -cavrispmkII -Pusb -U flash:w:Sanguino/bootloaders/atmega644p/ATmegaBOOT_644P.hex

But this result in the following error.

avrdude: AVR device initialized and ready to accept instructions

Reading | ################################################## | 100% 0.01s

avrdude: Device signature = 0x000000
avrdude: Yikes!  Invalid device signature.
         Double check connections and try again, or use -F to override
         this check.


avrdude done.  Thank you.


The command I found that works is as follows, it slows down communications.

avrdude -B 8 -patmega644P -cavrispmkII -Pusb -U flash:w:Sanguino/bootloaders/atmega644p/ATmegaBOOT_644P.hex


avrdude: AVR device initialized and ready to accept instructions

Reading | ################################################## | 100% 0.01s

avrdude: Device signature = 0x1e960a
avrdude: NOTE: FLASH memory has been specified, an erase cycle will be performed
         To disable this feature, specify the -D option.
avrdude: erasing chip
avrdude: reading input file "Sanguino/bootloaders/atmega644p/ATmegaBOOT_644P.hex"
avrdude: input file Sanguino/bootloaders/atmega644p/ATmegaBOOT_644P.hex auto detected as Intel Hex
avrdude: writing flash (65382 bytes):

Writing | ################################################## | 100% 0.64s

avrdude: 65382 bytes of flash written
avrdude: verifying flash memory against Sanguino/bootloaders/atmega644p/ATmegaBOOT_644P.hex:
avrdude: load data flash data from input file Sanguino/bootloaders/atmega644p/ATmegaBOOT_644P.hex:
avrdude: input file Sanguino/bootloaders/atmega644p/ATmegaBOOT_644P.hex auto detected as Intel Hex
avrdude: input file Sanguino/bootloaders/atmega644p/ATmegaBOOT_644P.hex contains 65382 bytes
avrdude: reading on-chip flash data:

Reading | ################################################## | 100% 20.42s

avrdude: verifying ...
avrdude: 65382 bytes of flash verified


Now to look into compiling sprinter firmware

Monday, 13 June 2011

Sanguinololu construction

This is one of the new all in one boards to control a reprap. For details see Sanguinololu 

I got sent this motherboard from a guy I met on the #reprap  and I orded all the parts from mouser.com 

I assembled it as per the instructions on the above page.

The empty board

The hardest part, a tiny surface mount IC. This is the Serial over USB chip.


The rest of the USB assembly.  I tested this, the computer found a new serial device as it should. :)


Add in the headers for the Pololu stepper controller Boards


Added in the Jumpers

And related Pololu resistors and Capacitors

Add in the CPU holder and Crystal and remaining components.


And inserted the CPU.

The connectors are on just to stop the pins being bent.

I haven't tested this yet, and I need to borrow a Programmer from work to put boot loader into it.